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The book „Surf Science“ is very well known in the surf scene. The author Tony Butt has dedicated his whole life to the ocean. His love for surfing big waves made him also dive deeper into the subject of the sea. Therefore he studied ocean science and luckily for all of us, made this complex subject more understandable for surfers by writing that wonderful book which is already a classic.
Tony Butt is also a Patagonia Ambassador and expresses his deep love for the ocean into his work for NGOs like Surfers against Sewage and Save the waves.
After the day of his workshop „Surf Science“ in Ericeira we had some time to talk about his life and therefore about everything related to the ocean for example…
– his decision to go to Spain
– how the idea for his book „Surf Science“ came up
– surfing big waves compared to normal waves
– why society is loosing contact with nature
– Sustainability
– and lots of more…
Shownotes:
Tony Butt´s articles at Patagonia
The Book „Surf Science: An introduction to waves for Surfing“
The Book „Surfers Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates“
The Book „Guide to sustainable Surfing“
Patagonia
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Never miss the best waves at the right time at the right place around the world. Order your „SURFING WORLDWIDE MAP“ here.
Join us for Surf & Yoga in Morocco for a new edition of the GET WET SOON Immersion this Dec. 2 till 9.
Or join our ”Brainsweat“ Surf Coworkation in Morocco from Nov. 24 – Dec. 1
Among all soul surfers this planet has to offer Kepa Acero from the Basque Country might be one of the most famous ones. After surfing in competitions for years he left that part of his life behind just to travel along this planets coasts and surf lot of empty spots all by himself. And luckily for all of us, always with his videocamera that he installed at the beach.
Due to these authentic videos that he put online he gained a lot of new followers that got imsprierd by his simple lifestyle.
I had the honor to talk to him during the surf film festival Berlin where we talked about the movie „Its not only about waves“ that he did with his girlfriend, the wonderful filmmaker Eva Diez, the life after his accident and lots of more….
I hope you enjoy the conversation just like I did and would be very happy if you leave a little review on iTunes, which helps to make this podcast more popular maybe also among non-surfers.
Subjects we talked about (among others):
• about his friendship with Karolo
• the Movie „It´s not all about waves“
• what it feels like traveling alone
• about giving
• thoughts on life after his accident
• and more…
Shownotes:
Kepa Acero at PUKAS
Kepa Acero on Instagram
Kepa Acero Homepage
Eva Diez on Instagram
Eva Diez Homepage
SurfilmFest Berlin
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Maybe this might also be of your interest:
Get the right surf-season for 108 regions worldwide with the „SURFING WORLDWIDE MAP„.
Follow me to Morocco for the GET WET SOON Surf- and Yoga Immersion this Dec. 2-9.
Over the years the Stormrider Surf Guide did establish itself as the ultimate ressource for surftravellers around the whole world. With its comprehensive content about surfdestinations along almost every coast on the planet that provide waves there are equally lots of different versions of that legendary Guide.
Oliver Fitzjones, one of the founders visited us during our GET WET SOON Immersion in France, where we had an interesting talk about how it all started…
among other subjects we talked about…
• how it came to the idea for the SURFRIDER SURF GUIDE
• about the ethics of revealing secret spots
• why he did move to France, coming from England
• his thoughts about online ressources regarding surf spots
• his realation to the ocean…
OUT SOON!!! The WORLD STORMRIDER SURF GUIDE is going to be released this October as a completely renewed edition – the most comprehensive guide ever!
Shownotes:
Lowpressure (That´s the place where you´ll find every version of the Stormrider Surf Guide and also the new World Guide.
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ENJOY THE BEST SEASONS FOR BEST WAVES DURING YOUR SURFTRAVELS WITH THE „SURFING WORLDWIDE MAP„.
Feel free to leave a short review on itunes – this helps to make this podacst more on top of the lists. Thank you!
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For the lates episode I am very happy to announce a very special guest, who’s book I have read last year. A book that caught me from the first paragraph and that was so different from everything else that I have read about surfing until then.
I am talking about William Finnegan the author the wonderful piece barbarian days, with whom I sat down in Berlin during the Surffilm-Festival Berlin (organised by last weekend, having a pizza, a lemonade and a very nice conversation about his book and therefore about his life of writing and surfing.
Subjects we were talking about:
• How it came to the idea for Barbarian Days
• Lifestyle of Traveling compared to living in New York
• The development of Surfing in general (commercialisation etc.)
• Did his life changed after winning the Pulitzer Price?
• The meaning of the ocean
• Filled line ups due to publications
• Literature / Writers that did inspire William Finnegan
• Spirituality
• and more…
Shownotes:
Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days at Pulitzer Price.com
William Finnegan Profile on THE NEW YORKER
Barbarentage on Suhrkamp
Surffilmnacht
Nouvague Events
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NEVER MISS THE BEST SEASONS FOR BEST WAVES DURING YOUR SURFTRAVELS WITH THE „SURFING WORLDWIDE MAP„.
